Wednesday, 7 July 2010

Tying Yourself Up In Knots

Ladies,

My blog this week is about ties..........and don't think it doesn't relate to you. I wear a tie - and mighty fine it looks with a white shirt and pair of black trousers.

But if ties aren't your thing; this could be useful for the men in your life.

Let me just say one thing - JUST HOW MANY MEN DON'T KNOW HOW TO TIE A TIE!!!???

I am SO sick of seeing men walking around with ties that are CLEARLY tied incorrectly. What is up with that? This is a life skill - and you've just GOT to help them to get it right.
The rules - once and for all are as follows:

1. The tie should end at the tip of the belt on the waistband. Absolutely no higher and no lower.
2. The knot should fit snug to the top of the neck button - and not look as if the two have fallen out.
3. Ties with button down shirts do not look good - ever.
4. The knot of the tie should be in keeping with the size and scale of your face. So, if you have small features, you need a small knot; and vice-versa. Otherwise it will look out of proportion, unbalanced and just not right.
5. If you have more length than width in your face; then you should have a wider spread collar to balance your features. The opposite is also true - if you have more width than length, then you need a long point collar and a knot that is in scale with your face.

The tie is a signature piece for a man (or woman!) It's a chance to express your personality; presence and brand. It should enhance and support you, never distract or confuse.

That's all for now. Nothing like tying up some details..........

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Wearing White Well

As I watch the longest EVER match in Wimbledon tennis history; I'm struck by the notion of wearing white. How do you wear it well? What does white as a colour mean? And frankly, should any of this matter?

In Western culture, white is associated with purity; in Eastern culture it's associated with mourning.

In North America, there are unwritten rules about not wearing white before Memorial Day (end of May) and after Labour Day (first Monday in September).

Different cultures; different countries; different rules; but the same colour. So, what does white mean when it comes to clothing?

Combining white with a deep colour (e.g. black, navy, slate grey) for clothing creates a powerful and authoritative look. For both ladies and gentlemen, combining deep and light colours in our clothing enables us to look our most formal and professional.

White reflects light and so is more comfortable to wear in warm weather than black (which absorbs light), and in which we feel the heat more easily.

To wear white well means knowing what TYPE of white suits us best. If you have glorious warm colouring, then actually cream will look better on you. Cream is in fact a warm white - and by that I mean it's a white which has yellow in it. Cream and chocolate brown (which is high contrast), will look much better on you than black and white.

If you have 'salt and pepper' colouring in your hair, then probably a muted white (i.e. it has grey in it), will look better on you than a bright, sharp, clear white. And by the way a clear bright white looks glorious if you have high contrast between your skin and hair colour, or if you have gorgeous, bright eyes. I love wearing a bright white, and combine it often with black; because it matches my hair colour. If you have white hair; wearing white will suit you!

Knowing your best white is extremely useful to identifying some superb staples for your wardrobe - shirts, blouses and tees for example.

Why do some women typically hesitate over white trousers? Because white is a light colour and will increase the perception of size - so great if you want to wear a white top and make your bust appear larger - less good if you have a larger bottom and want to make it appear smaller.

As soon as any of your whites appear tired (e.g. through washing, piling, dullness of colour); replace them. They're not worth keeping and if you wear 'tired whites' in a professional environment, then beware of communicating tired and dull through your clothes. Nobody wants to say that do they?

Thursday, 17 June 2010

FINE HATS AND FRIPPERY

As it's Ladies Day at Royal Ascot, it seems only right to talk about hats. Big hats, small hats, silly hats, sassy hats will all be out in force today.............and most women love to wear them.

Why?

It's a chance to express our individuality, creativity, femininity and drama.....all through an accessory which, outside of a wedding, has vanished from our daywear wardrobe.

So what are the dos and don'ts?

1. A hat should harmonise and balance with your face shape and size- not overwhelm it or might your face look 'bigger'.
2. Most people wear the hat incorrectly - it should sit on the crown of your head.
3. I'm all for wearing a hat at a jaunty angle - but make sure it's fixed on properly. There's nothing more damaging to the delight and look of wearing a hat than having to spend your whole day with your hand on your head trying to keep it on as the wind blows.
4. A great alternative to the hat is the 'fascinator'. These gorgeous creatures come in all shapes and sizes and can attached to the hair with a slide or clip.
5. Don't feel that you have to match all the colours of your accessories - so for example - cream bag, cream shoes, cream fascinator, cream pashmina etc. This can all look too 'matchy matchy' and can look dated.
6. You can pick a colour as an accent to wear for the hat/fascinator, or if you are wearing a pattern in your clothes, then choose one of these colours as the colour for your headgear.
7. Don't do pattern in the hat or fasinator AND in the outfit. You'll look like a pair of curtains.
8. Dark colours and bright colours suit ladies with high contrast (e.g. dark hair; light skin). Low contrast colouring suits lighter colours for the headgear.
9. Decide on which part of your outfit is the focal point - is it the hat or is it something else? Don't have too many in the whole 'look' - the eye likes to be deceived - but not confused.
10. Whoever thought that wearing a fruit bowl; telephone box, a kitchen utensil or any item of furniture on your head looked great......clearly needs their eyes testing.

Finally - never buy hats....rent them. Much cheaper and much more practical!
Happy hat hunting.

Monday, 8 March 2010

Celebrate International Women's Day

Monday 8th March is the day to celebrate women - all of our qualities, capabilities and achievements. It's International Women's Day.

Today also seems appropriate and timely as the day to acknowledge the success of Kathryn Bigelow, who won the Oscar for Best Director and also for Best Picture at the 82nd Annual Academy Awards in Los Angeles. Amazingly it's the first time that a woman has won in either of these categories. So - much to celebrate but also a reminder of how far women still have to go when it comes to being equally recognised for their talents and skills.

The recent research into pay equality in the UK revealed that the gap between men and women's pay isn't closing. It's not right; it's not fair but it's how it is. I have a wide range of amazingly talented clients for whom my mantra is 'success is a combination of style and substance'. Being good enough for a role isn't actually always enough; you've got to consistently look, behave and communicate in a way that says to others: 'I'm the one for the new job opportunity/pay rise/project responsibility'.

Women everywhere take note: it's not about style over substance...........you need both to succeed. Enjoy International Women's Day and always remember - stand out from the crowd for the right reasons and never blend in with everyone else for the wrong ones.

Saturday, 6 March 2010

Blue Is The Colour

Did you know that colours evoke different emotions and associations with all of us? We speak a language of colour (e.g. seeing red; feeling blue; green with envy; yellow-bellied etc.) which connect colour to emotion - and it's everywhere.

I read an article recently which talked about the colour BLUE. Although scientists believe we associate it with being calm; research now suggests it makes us more creative and imaginative. Who'd have thought that?

A Canadian study found that volunteers who had blue walls and furniture took more risks and were more creative - whilst RED helped concentration. Interior designers have long used colour to influence our mood through the use of pale, muted tones.

Interesting, but who cares you might say? Well, think about it in the context of your hair, clothing and accessories. I have clients who 'feel pretty' in certain colours - or more confident or more sexy.....and I believe them. For sure you will have colours which you don't like with a vengeance (Yellow anyone?) Some colours we just don't 'do' - and it's different for everyone. I'm not a fan of grey - but that's just on me. On others it can look gorgeous.

The point is this: yet again it shows that when we wear something which we positively emotionally connect to then we feel better/more confident/more like ourselves. So, whether it's blue, green, red, yellow, purple, brown, black, white, orange, cream or any other colour under the sun - go wear it - enjoy it and feel better and more like the real you.

Tuesday, 16 February 2010

Should We Be A Slave To Fashion?

It was extremely sad news to hear of the death of Alexander (Lee) McQueen last week. 40 years old and in his prime. Much has been written about his work - his was a huge talent and yes, we all know he was the bad boy of British fashion. But the reality is that he knew how to dress for women's shapes, cut fabric exquisitely and experiemented with pattern, texture and detail to wonderful effect.

The question I'm often asked by my clients when it comes to designers 'though is: 'but what about the outfits which appeared on the catwalk?' You can't wear that!! It's true of course - but catwalks are a theatre of expression - a place to be creative, frivolous, expressive, joyous, mischievous and sometime shocking with a 'look'. The themes, trends and ideas are interpreted in cuts, shapes, details for clothes which subsequently do appeal and can sell by the bucket load.

So what about the fashion shows and seasonal trends when it comes to the 'Stylish Woman'? Should we all rush out and buy 'luxe sportswear' for Spring/Summer 2010 for example? Hmmm. The reality of most women's lives (and wardrobes) is that they do not have the money, time or energy to continually change their closets to suit the 'trend'. And the good news is that you don't have to.

As the fabulous Coco Chanel said: 'Fashion comes and goes; style is forever'. Have 'fashion items' in your wardrobes by all means - experiment with pieces that are 'on trend'. You may find they become old friends; but you may also find that they do their duty and then need to be retired at the end of the season. So - don't feel obliged to spend vast sums of money on very fashionable pieces, and know that the good news is you don't have to - there are plenty of high quality fashion pieces in shopping malls the world over. Having between 10-15% of your wardrobe for high fashion is plenty, plenty, plenty.

Enjoy and experiment with fashion; have fun with it; see how it can transform an outfit. But don't be a slave to fashion - remember that not all trends will suit you anyway (no matter how hard you try). Finding your style - loving and living that through your clothes is always the best way to go.

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Can Women Wear Black?

What is it with all this talk of wearing black? Spring is supposed to be around the corner and we should all be reaching for that jaunty nautical sailor look soon (er - not actually). Maybe it's because the catwalk shows are upon us again....who knows.......but real life women don't tend to respond well to being repeatedly told what they 'can't' do. I keep opening the paper to articles screaming 'Don't wear black past the age of 40!' For goodness sake. What nonsense.

When it comes to colour; we can have emotional as well as physcial reactions to it and one of the most common questions I'm asked by my clients is: can I wear black?

Given that I work with women of all ages; leading busy, challenging lives let me offer the short answer: 'YES'.
  • Any woman can wear black on the lower half of her body - skirts, trousers, shoes, boots, hosiery, knits. Knock yourself out and have fun with it.
  • Black is a 'receding' colour. This means it appears 'further away' when we look at it and it's why we reach for black when we're having an 'I feel fat' day. We feel slimmer and we look slimmer. Fact.

But here's the slightly longer answer to the question 'can I wear black?'. 'YES - WITH SOME CONSIDERATION'. Read on if you want to know how to wear black (and ESPECIALLY if you thought that you couldn't).

  • Go see a professional who has been trained in colour analysis and get your colours analysed. It will give you lots of ideas for hair, glasses, make-up and clothing colours. (Oh come on - of course I'll recommend that). Your colouring changes as you get older. Get over it. When you can see that wearing colours that compliment your natural colouring make you look younger, more refreshed, less haggard and with a more defined jawline - with not a hint of Botox or surgery in sight - you'll think, "what's not to love about that?"
  • Back to black again - it all depends on if you want to wear black near your face (in jewellery; hair colour; glasses; tops; knits; shirts; jackets; dresses; coats etc.) Because if you do - your skin/hair and eye colour are important.
  • If you have high contrast colour between your hair and skin (e.g. dark hair; pale skin) - you can wear black with gusto. You can also wear black if you have very bright colouring or as a woman of colour - black will look gorgeous on you.
  • But what about red heads? Grey hair? Blondes? If you know you don't look your perky best wearing black usually - then the chances are you need to 'lift' the impact of wearing black. What do I mean? You need to offset the downside of the black. You can do that by:
  • Well applied make-up with colours that suit you
  • Wearing the collar of a shirt of blouse outside of a black jacket or coat
  • Wearing a scarf which matches your eye colour
  • Gorgeous jewellery (necklaces, ear-rings) which matches your eye or hair colour (or one of the other colours which a fabulous colour consultant will advise you to wear as a 'basic'.
  • Breaking up the black by having it in a pattern - with a colour that works for you. It's less overwhelming that way

Let's go back to black. Wear it when you want; with pride and with a twist if you know you need to 'lift' it.

Black is back. Enjoy it.